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| Botswana: What to see | |||
| Tsodilo Hills | |||
>see photographs Overview The word Tsodilo is derived from a Hambukushu word meaning "sheer". Rising majestically above the surrounding savannah plains, mysticism and ancient folklore add to the uniqueness of these hills, which were eulogised in Laurens Van der Post's "The Lost World of the Kalahari". The National Museum has nominated this north-western, 70 000 ha area as Botswana's first World Heritage site. A decision on this application will be passed in 2002. The hills are four rocky outcrops of micaceous quartzite, the tallest of which, known to the San people as the male, rises 420 metres above the horizon. The female, next in size, is approximately 250 metres high. Further away are the child and the smallest of the hills, which is unnamed. The San consider the male and female to be husband and wife, with the child a result of this union. San Legends and Paintings Tsodilo is a place of significance to the San people, who have lived in the area for thousands of years. They believe that a horned serpent monster lives in a cave on the western face of the female hill. The caves on the female hill are also home to the gods, and it is from here that they rule over the mortal world. The most sacred place is the near the top of the male hill, where, legend holds, the first spirit knelt to pray after creating the world. The San believe you can still see the impression of his knees in the rock. It is also believed that these gods will cause misfortune to anyone who hunts or causes death near the hills. There are thousands of rock paintings in Tsodilo Hills, making it one of the most historically significant art sites in the world. The San did most of the paintings, although there are a few by Bantu-speakers whose style differs to that of the San. The exact age of the paintings are not known although some are thought to be more than 20 000 years old, whilst others are as little as a century. Hambukushu Legend The Hambukushu people believe that their god, Nyambe, first lowered their tribe and livestock to earth on the female hill. The evidence they point to is hoof-prints clearly etched into a rock, high on the hill. More modern thinking is that these could be ancient dinosaur tracks or merely erosion marks. Wildlife The Tsodilo Gecko is a small, nocturnal gecko with brown and yellow stripes and is absolutely unique to these hills. There is not much game in this area apart from kudu, steenbok and duiker, which have the ability to live in waterless areas. Although leopard tracks can often be found in the hills, the predators themselves are seldom seen. Bird watching at Tsodilo Hills can be reasonable if spending some time in the area, as most of the birds are found in the mixed woodland further away from the hills. Yellow billed hornbills, grey louries and Melba finches are some of the more commonly sighted species. Vegetation There are a wonderful variety of trees to be found in the mixed woodland, particularly surrounding the foot of the female hill. Groves of massive mongongo or manketti trees, whose fruit is much loved by the San, can, in winter, be mistaken for baobabs. Monkey-orange, mukwa, red syringa, marula, bird plums and acacias are all found in this part of the desert. Away from the woodland stretch the grassy plains of the Kalahari. When to go Tsodilo Hills can be visited at any time of the year. The dirt roads leading there are best after being settled by the rains, but many pans filled with water will need to be crossed. Activities Climbing and exploring the hills, seeing the evidence of legends and ancient life. Accommodation The closest accommodation is a four hour drive away at Shakawe: Drotsky's Cabins, Xaro Lodge, Shakawe Fishing Lodge or Makwena Lodge. There are no official campsites in the area and camping is permitted wherever you like. Water may be drawn from a well near the airstrip. How to get there By road From Maun, take the main tar road to Shakawe, 370 km. The Hills are 40 km (4 hours) from Shakawe on a dirt road not easily forgotten! 4WD is a must as this road is heavily corrugated and the Kalahari sand ever challenging. By air There is an airstrip west of Male Hill but road transport must be arranged at that end with one of the four lodges at Shakawe: Drotsky's Cabins, Xaro Lodge, Shakawe Fishing Camp or Makwena Lodge. |
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