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Botswana:
What to see |
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Central
Kalahari Game Reserve |
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>see photographs
Best
known for
Established as a game reserve in 1961, this is one of the world's
few reserves that was formed for the protection of people rather than
wildlife. Now open to the public, the area was originally set aside
as a place where the San (Bushmen) people could continue their traditional
way of life. Deception Pan, in the north west of Deception Valley,
adds to the fame of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve through the
book "Cry of the Kalahari" by Mark and Delia Owens.
The appeal of this solitary and remote place is the vast open spaces
and silence. The San people claim that at night it is so quiet, "you
can hear the stars in song".
Size and Location
Situated in central Botswana, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve covers
an area of 51800 square km (just smaller than Holland and Belgium
combined), making it the second largest protected area in the world
and Africa's largest.
Wildlife
Animals found in this reserve include gemsbok with their amazing capacity
to survive long periods without water, springbok, hartebeest and caracal,
giraffe, cheetah, wildebeest and kudu have also adapted to this harsh
environment. The Owens studied the rare brown hyena here, lion and
honey badger are often seen around Deception Pan, along with families
of ground squirrels and ever-entertaining suricates.
The birds of the Kalahari are dry savannah species, the larger of
which are the kori bustards, ostrich, secretary birds, korhaan and
francolin.
People
Approximately 900 people inhabit the reserve. 50 percent of these
are San, 35 percent Bakgalagadi and the remaining 15 percent of a
mixed race between the two. The San villages are mostly in the southern
part of the reserve.
Environment and Vegetation
The central Kalahari has a mostly flat surface except for one rocky
outcrop named Tsau Hill, on the north-western border of the reserve.
There are not as many sand dunes as one would expect of this area
and the northern region is dotted with numerous grassed and saline
surfaced pans. Sunday and Piper's Pans are permanent waterholes ensuring
good game viewing throughout the year. This part of the Kalahari is
not barren desert and is, in fact, well vegetated. Tall grasses, open
woodland, jesse bush and mature forests are all found here.
Climate
Big blue open skies are almost guaranteed. In winter the days are
hot and the nights can be bitterly cold. Temperatures have been known
to drop as low as -12 degrees Celsius, while daytime temperatures
may hover in the high 30's. In summer the days are baking and the
cooler nights a welcome relief.
When to go
Game viewing is best from March to June and the cooler temperatures
at that time make this the best time to go.
Activities
Game viewing in 4x4 vehicles, guided walks, studying the history and
geology of the Kalahari, and an informed glimpse into the San people's
way of life.
Accommodation
Deception Valley
Lodge is situated just outside the reserve's northern boundary.
There are no lodges in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, however
camping is permitted at Deception Valley, Sunday Pans and Piper's
Pan.
How to get there
By road: the best approach by road can be made from
Rakops, 170 km west of Orapa, and then it's a matter of following
the signs for several hours first to Matswere Game Scout Camp, then
70 km to Deception Pan (total around 150 km). From Maun take the Maun-Nata
main road, turn 52 km south of Maun at Makalamabedi, then 5 km to
Matswere Game Scout Camp and 70 km to Deception Pan. 4WD high clearance
vehicles are necessary and own fuel and other supplies.
By air: Private air charters fly into Deception Valley
from Maun and other private lodge locations. Deception
Valley Lodge organise ground pickups for residents.
Precautions
If self-driving, the Kalahari must be taken very seriously in terms
of being equipped with water, fuel and all other supplies and equipment.
It is a remote area and you may not see other traffic for some time.
The sandy roads can also be challenging even to competent drivers.
Experienced travellers generally travel in a party of two vehicles.
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